Introduction To Ski Servicing

We know it’s not always high on the agenda when hitting the slopes, but ensuring your skis are properly serviced can dramatically improve your skiing. Maybe you’re aware that your skis require servicing, but having the confidence to do it yourself can be a little daunting. There are also times when taking your skis to a professional is a good idea for significant repair work or perhaps at the start of the season to set up everything as you want. Everything in this blog will allow you to maintain your skis throughout the season. I’ll give you a run down on the basic equipment you’ll need, along with a simple guide on how to use each tool when tuning your skis. There are also some other useful tips and tricks. An Instructors Guide To Skis

DIY Ski Servicing

What You’ll Need

Waxing Iron

Approximately £50. A piece of equipment that can easily be shared if you’re going away with a few others. If you’re on season its not uncommon to share one between a few friends. It is required for waxing, so I have included it in my list. For anyone not on season or for someone who doesn’t fancy sharing, it’s an important piece of kit. Super easy to use and durable, buy once and you won’t need to replace for a long while. 

Base Cleaner

To prepare your bases for waxing. Pretty self-explanatory and doesn’t require much skill to use. It’s essential to do this before you wax, as it’s surprising how much dirt is left on your bases—approximately £8. 

Wax

My best recommendation would be an all-temperature wax. You can always buy colder or hotter temp wax when required, but for now, an all temp wax will do the job fine. You can get a big bar of wax for £10 -£15. A big bar of wax will last you multiple tunes. 

Plastic Scraper

An essential piece of equipment used to scrape the excess wax from your bases once you’ve finished servicing. It also comes with a notched corner to remove wax from the edges. You can get one of these for about £5

Nylon Brush

Used to remove excess wax that the plastic scraper left behind and restore the structure to the base. This gives the bases a neat finish, and improves the ski’s ability to slide without friction. You can always add a couple of extra brushes at a later date, but for now, this brush is multi-purpose and will do a great job. You can get a perfectly fine brush for £8-£10

 

Medium Diamond File

One of the most versatile pieces of equipment. It is used to polish and sharpen your edges without removing too much material. You should only have to sharpen your edges with a file every few weeks. Doing it too often will remove too much metal from the edge and reduce its lifespan. A diamond file will remove burs, polish your edges and keep them sharp. Set your edges with a file, then maintain them with a diamond file. It’s also best to use your diamond files with water or rubbing alcohol to improve their longevity. Similar to the brushes, there are multiple diamond files you can buy. There are fine and coarse diamonds, but the medium file is the best all-rounder and is the best option if you can only buy one. It’s worth buying a decent diamond file, and these cost about £30.

Coarse Diamond File

If you can afford another diamond file I would definitely recommend adding a coarse diamond file. A little more robust at deburring edges and getting the ski edge smooth again. Useful for the everyday clean up of your edges.

Side Edge File Guide

There are a few different angles a side edge file guide comes in that I’ll cover later in the blog. A side edge file guide just makes sure you’re consistent in servicing the edge and is running smooth. Its also much safer as the risk of your hand slipping on the edge is higher when operating free hand. Its worth buying a good file guide so be prepared to spend a little more.

Clamp

A simple piece of equipment used to hold the files on the guide. You can probably find one of these knocking around your house or in the garage. If you don’t have one, you can pick one up from a DIY store for just a few quid. 

Bench and vises

You’ll need a secure workbench and some way of securing the skis to the bench. You can purchase a pair of ski vises or if you’re a bit of a handyman a DIY version. The skis just need to be secured at the tip and tail and able to stand on their side so you’re able to access the edge.

Not Included

A few tools are not included on this list; you’d either not use them frequently enough to make it worthwhile, or the potential for error is relatively high and, therefore, should probably be trusted with a professional. The tools included in this list will allow you to maintain a great tune in between an occasional visit to the ski shop. This list does not include tools like a sharpening file and a base edge file guide.

How To Service Skis

Follow this simple step-by-step guide to give your skis a standard service. Sidecut tuning offer great educational videos on how to tune your skis. This simple service should take no more than 20 minutes.

Prepare The Skis

The first step in servicing your skis is to ensure the ski is free of dirt and debris. The ski should be dry and ideally have had time to warm a little if tuning after skiing. Apply your base cleaner to a dry cloth and clean up the bases. You can quickly remove any dirt from the top sheet with a dry cloth. Once the base and edges are free from dirt, you can begin to service the edges. Secure the ski to the workbench.

Start With The Edges

Using your clamp, attach your coarse or medium diamond file to the side edge guide. Diamond files can cut in both directions, so as long as the file sits on top of the file guide and not on the flat surface that glides along the base, you can pull the file in either direction. Starting at the tip of the ski, work back towards the tail of the ski in approximately 6-inch passes. You can use a fair amount of pressure. You can work tip-to-tail two or three times on each edge. If you have both coarse and medium files, start with coarse. Your edge should feel much smoother and polished. Repeat this process for both edges on both skis.

Waxing

Lay the ski flat over your vises with the base facing you, and using an elastic band, pull the brakes out of the way. Set your waxing iron temperature to approximately 120 c. Once the iron is up to temperature, hold the wax onto the iron and drip a small amount of wax along the whole length of the ski. Run the waxing iron along the ski base, ensuring the wax is melted and covers the ski evenly. This won’t take long, and it’s important not to overdo it. Once you’ve done one ski, set aside and do the other whilst the ski cools down. It’s important not to scrape the ski when it’s still hot.

Scrape And Brush

Once the skis have had a chance to cool, you can now scrape the skis. Keeping the skis securely held by your vises, use your plastic scraper to pull off the excess wax. Again, working from tip to tail. The plastic scraper works best when placed at a slight angle to the ski base. Using the notched corner, you can also pull off excess wax from the ski edge. Once most excess wax is removed, use your nylon brush to restore some structure to the base and polish. Take a few passes from tip to tail.

Choosing Your Edge Angles

An important consideration when tuning your skis is the side and base edge bevels. For the purposes of DIY ski servicing, I’ll focus on the side edge bevel only. Base edge bevel is incredibly important, but it is best to leave it to a professional. Your base edge bevel only needs doing occasionally, usually after a base grind. Once your base edge bevel is set, you can leave it alone. When you take your skis into a professional ski shop, ask for their advice on what base edge bevel to have.

Side edge bevels are usually between 1 and 3 degrees. The more acute the angle, the deeper the ski will penetrate the surface of the snow, increasing grip. Although it may seem like this is the perfect scenario for everyone, beginner and intermediate skiers may find that a more acute bevel is too aggressive. The ski will feel hooky and feel difficult to steer. It requires an advanced skill level to handle more acute bevels. If you’re a beginner, I would start with a 1-degree side edge bevel and see how you go. Intermediate and advanced skiers can start with 2 degrees. 3-degree side edge bevels are reserved for the most advanced skiers on the hardest snow. When purchasing a file guide, the numbers available may be 89, 88 and 87. These represent edge angles of 1, 2 and 3 degrees. Finding the right base and edge bevels takes some trial and error. The best thing you can do is take your skis into a professional shop and ask for some advice to begin with.

Ski Base Repair

When you’re skiing often, it’s not uncommon for the base of your skis to get a little banged up. Most of the time, you’ll just collect the odd surface scratch. There is no need to worry about these; if you had to repair your base each time you collected one of those, you’d be doing it every day. For more severe core shots, it’s imperative you get the base repaired. Not only will a core shot affect how the ski feels on the snow, but it can lead to damage to the ski core. If damage to the base is severe enough that the ski’s core is exposed, take it to a professional ski shop. Ensure you don’t ski before taking it to the shop either; if water gets into the core, it can lead to irreversible damage and the ski being ruined.

For minor base gouges, filling these in with p-tex is easy. P-tex sticks are inexpensive, and you can complete a good repair with one stick of P-tex, a lighter and a metal scraper. Using the lighter, heat the end of a p-tex stick until it begins to drip. Drip some of the p-tex over the area that requires patching until covered. If p-tex continues to burn when dripped on the base, blow the flame out to avoid burning ski base. Less is more with this repair. Hold the p-tex stick close to the base when dripping. You need enough to fill the gouge, but any more is simply excess and risks burning the base. Leave it to cool, and then simply remove the excess using a metal scraper. Once you’ve removed the excess, you can finish by brushing to polish.

Ski Maintenance Tips

Aside from a regular tune, there are other things you can do to ensure your skis are maintained and properly looked after:

  • Use a good ski strap – When storing or carrying your skis around the resort, a quality ski strap prevents the edges of both skis from sliding against each other and becoming damaged. It’s also much easier to carry your skis with a ski strap, as the skis won’t slide.

 

  • Keep an old towel with you as part of your tuning kit. It is useful for drying your skis after a day on the slopes before storing them away or tuning them. Skis left wet overnight can start to rust.

 

  • Storage wax – at the end of the season, before storing your skis away for summer. First, ensure they’re dry, then give your skis a good tune and leave a thick layer of wax on the base. This prevents the bases from drying out in storage.

 

  • Get a regular binding check – I would recommend getting a binding check at a professional ski shop at least once a season. Regular use and the occasional fall can weaken the integrity of a binding, particularly if you’ve had some heavy falls.

 

  • Get a base grind – Only needed once or twice in an entire season, a base grind restores structure to the base (like adding tread to your tyres), ensures the base is flat, and repairs any damage. When a ski has structure, you’ll notice the base has a visible pattern; if you no longer see a visible pattern, it may be time for a base grind. Over time, a ski base will become inconsistent in flatness; this means the base may be higher or flatter in certain areas, causing a convex or concave shape. This makes the ski incredibly inconsistent. If your ski begins to feel more difficult to handle, it may be time for a base grind. The most obvious reason you’ll need a base grind will be to repair any significant damage.

If you’re heading to one of our locations and want to know the best place to get your skis tuned, drop us a message or give us a call – contact us

 

We have a range of useful guides on equipment:

Everything Else You Might Need For Your GAP Ski Course

Buying A Ski Helmet For Your GAP Course

An Instructors Guide To Ski Boots

An Instructors Guide To Skis